Upper Respiratory Infection (URI)

Upper respiratory infection is by far the most common rat illness. It is easily treatable- IF you catch it early. It can be fatal otherwise.

URI’s are caused by the bacteria Mycoplasma. I know- it’s a big word. All rats have this bacteria. It is usually transferred from mother to offspring at birth, but in the rare case that one is not infected; it is highly contagious so it will usually contract it from a littermate or a breeding mate early in life. This bacterium affects the respiratory tract. It will lay dormant in a healthy, stress-free rat. It is not until the immunity is low and the system is stressed that it causes an infection.

The first sign of a URI is eye or nose discharge. Stage two is a subtle wheezing or clicking sound to the breath. To the unaccustomed ear it may sound normal, or you may not notice it. If you aren’t sure then hold your ratty up to your ear to listen to the lungs- you should hear nothing (except maybe the squeak of frustration as your pet rat tries valiantly to leap from your hands to play some more!). The last stage is sneezing. The worst thing you can do for your pet rat is to wait until stage two for treatment. By then the bacteria is already affecting the respiratory system and requires more aggressive treatment.

At the FIRST sign of a URI take your pet rat to a vet that is accustomed to treating rats. These are usually called “exotic vets,” or “small and furry” vets. Most vets see only cats and dogs so make sure to call ahead of time. Or better yet, do your research prior to any sickness so you are prepared for an emergency.

Treatment will usually involve a round of antibiotics, usually given orally by a small syringe, which can sometimes prove tricky. Most vets will make sure it’s a tasty antibiotic that many pets will take freely. If not try putting it on their favorite treat. If their favorite treat is not so good for them (aka ANY artificial human food) then try wrapping your pet rat in a small towel or blanket, covering all but their head. Place the syringe behind the incisors (the large prominent teeth that are pretty hard to miss) and give a little at a time. This may stress them out to the extent that they snort small amounts of reddish orange liquid from their nose. Fret not- this is called porphyrinand it’s rat snot! It’s what stains their teeth that lovely orange color! Large amount of porphyrin is never a good sign though.

Pneumonia

Also concerning the respiratory tract system is pneumonia. Signs and treatment are similar to a URI, although a rat with pneumonia will have a wetter nose and a wetter breathing sound. Listen for liquid in the lungs.
Antibiotics are also required for treatment, and sometimes the use of a nebulizer is necessary. This tends to be more of a chronic, recurring illness. Know and be aware of the signs.

Mites and Fleas

This one is very obvious. If you see little bugs, or excessive itching and scratching causing hair loss or skin irritation your little one probably has fleas or mites.

Get a spray or shampoo from the pet store and FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. As always it’s the safer bet to get it checked out from a vet. A lot of external parasites go hand in hand with internal parasites, so make sure to have a fecal sample checked and cleared for internal parasites- which cause weight loss.

Bumblefoot (Ulcerative Pododermatitis)

Bumblefoot is a bacterial infection caused by the bacteria Staphylococcus aureus. It is characteristic of this infection for a large protruding wound on the pad of the back feet to be present.

To prevent bumblefoot make sure all surfaces are flat. Wire surfaces are irritating and harbor more bacteria, and make sure that your pet rats have a soft area to retreat to when their feetsies get tired!

To treat- clean bumbles two to three times a week. Antibiotics will also help the body fight the infection, or at the very least prevent the spread of the infection. Oftentimes this may require constant antibiotics, or a removal surgery. Very rarely does it go away with normal treatment.

Growths / Tumors

Tumors are very prevalent in all rats male or female. Unfortunately the only thing to do when these occur is to take them to the vet to be removed, or taped for a cytology.

Prevention is the best medicine! Keep your rats at a stable temperature in a non-drafty area. Make sure their bedding isn’t too dusty. NEVER use pine or cedar. Aspen is the only wooded bedding that is acceptable for any small animal. EVEN though all are sold at pet stores, it is always best to avoid it. Use a paper based bedding such as Yesterdays News. Make sure to change the bedding often, especially if it is soaked. Any living thing is put at risk when roaming through it’s own fecal matter! Stress is usually the causing factor, so make sure the area isn’t around screaming children, curious pet cats, aggressive cage mates etc. Minimize any causes of stress. It’s important to check your rat for clear eyes, noses, palpate the body for signs of lumps and bumps. Listen to their breathing, look for signs of weigh loss or gain. It’s important to know what is normal for our pet rats so you can act appropriately when they are ill.

DISCLAIMER
Do not take information in this article or any of my others as a replacement for veterinary care or advice.

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First important decision- males or females? As I’ve stated multiple times now, a rat shouldn’t fly solo- they need interaction with other rats. With the assumption that you will be bringing in more then one ratty to make your pets let me say that same sex pairs are highly recommended unless you want babies up the hizzy. Rodents breed at an exponential rate- the parents get it on- followed suit (sooner then you’d expect) by their offspring. Males are aggressive towards babies- attacking and even sometimes devouring the young. Females will do the same if they feel the babies will threaten the food supply or space availability.

Personality

As far as personality- most people say they don’t notice a difference. However- I do. Males are much more drawn to cuddle and play time. They need scritches and snuggles, and more often then not- encouragement to exercise. Females are much more active and need each other much more then they need you- though they still enjoy their human time.

Males are much more aggressive and territorial. Females can be as well but it is in the nature of the male to protect it’s territory. Males fight more with each other due to this- if fighting stresses you out- stick with the ladies. Males do go through a moody stage- around 4-5 months of age, due to raging hormones.

Health Concerns

Each gender presents in own health issues. Males are more prone to obesity due to their mellow nature. They develop weak legs in old age, and can get testicular cancer. To prevent this (and to mellow out your territiorrial dude) get him neutered by an exotic vet.

Females are extremely prone to mammary tumors, a study suggests over 50% of female rats die due to this disease. Save your rat from this painful fate by getting her spayed at an early age. This will also omit the possibility of an infected uterus (pyometra).

Of course there are other health concerns, but these are the ones to be aware of when choosing the gender.

Size and appearance

Males- also referred to as “bucks” – as in most mammal species, grow much larger then their female counterparts. And certain, *ahem , body parts become very apparent. In case you missed my subtlety, their testicles grow quite large. They mark their territory with urine, and can have a musky smell to them. This smell helps other rats recognize whose territory is whose- but it can be irritating to some pet rat parents. As stated previously they are more prone to obesity and in general have a stockier body type

Females, or “does,” are quite dainty. They stay up to 50% smaller then males, but need just as much room- if not more, then males due to their higher activity level. This also makes them more slender and lithe in their appearance. Does have a smoother coat, and due to their lack of testicles and territorial marking ways, they have relatively no odor to them (if their cages are cleaned on a regular basis).

Can’t choose between the two? Can’t blame you- both are irresistibly cute and fun! Males and females due tend to get along just splendidly! But be a responsible rat owner and spay and neuter your pet rats to prevent breeding! Baby rats are cute, but there are so many out there who still need homes!

This general understanding of the differences males and females have to offer should help you narrow down your selection! Next topic? How to pick a healthy pet rat!

If you decide to go the easy way and buy a cage, make sure you know what you are looking for. There are so many styles and designs to choose from, that when you do go shopping it gets intimidating. Or you just buy the first cage that has a rat advertised on the packaging. Both are no bueno. Here are the basics.

Rat cages need to be large, and preferably multiple levels, as rats need to have room to run, walk, jump, climb and romp. You also need to keep in mind that you need to have sufficient floor room for hideouts, feeders, litter boxes, chews and toys, and ceiling room for hammocks, of course. A minimum sized caged should be at least 24 in X 12 in per ratty.

Make sure all the walking surfaces; including ramps to multiple levels, don’t have wire flooring. These wired floorings cause what is called bumble foot (ulcerative pododermatitis), which is essentially an infection resulting in a swelling of the feet.

Rat as pets need a well ventilated cage. Rat droppings and urine give off ammonia in the decomposition process, meaning it would build up if the cage is not ventilated. This means you probably want to stay away from glass or plastic aquarium type cages- however they do have extensions that top aquariums to add more vertical space a,d ventilate from the top.

The most obvious go to option is cages advertised for rats in pet stores. These cages will usually say “rat cage” or have a picture of a rat on the packaging. Pretty self explanatory. These tend to be very expensive and quite frankly- way too small for even one rat (and we all know you can’t have just one ratty.) Make sure that each rat has an absolute minimum of 2 cubic feet each, and more if at all possible. Rats need plenty of room to eat, sleep, play and exercise.

Most commercial cages available are very expensive- but are worth the price as they last a long time. Try looking at ferret cages and bird cages. Both are much taller then cages advertised for rats. Just make sure that the bars are close enough together that the rat can’t fit it’s head through- as if the head fits the whole ratty can escape. With bird cages make sure they can’t slide any doors or latches to open the cage from the inside.

It is also possible to make s cage with powder coated wires and a large tupperware or a pan for the bottom, making sure the lip is a couple of inches high to prevent flying litter.

After finding the perfect cage, make sure to adorn it with the right bedding, plenty of chews, toys and hammocks.

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